Scribblings
Toronto Brunch Spots | Toronto Brunch Spots |
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| Written by Eric Mathurin | |
| Friday, 29 August 2008 | |
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Like most people, we've spent some time roaming the streets looking for new places to eat. As it happens, we enjoy breakfast/brunch as our "meal of choice" for eating out, especially on weekends. (In Toronto, "Brunch is practically a competitive sport", to quote Toronto Life.) We've been to dozens of places in our general vicinity (King West) and thought we'd share our thoughts on them here. A few notes, before you start:
Click on the box below for see the review:
Niche Location: Queen St. West between Markham and Palmerston Rating: **** out of 5 Niche is, like it's name implies, a teeny, narrow café on Queen St. West. It seems, upon entering, to be primarily a place to pick up a coffee at the counter and then pull up at one of the few tables inside. But, actually, they provide table-service for a full brunch menu on the weekend and are open at the ungodly hour of 9:30am, which is a bit of an anomaly for downtown Toronto weekend brunch. I really like Niche. Of the few times I've been there, service has always prompt and friendly. The coffee is great, and their cappucinos are very, very good (and beautiful to look at). The brunch menu itself is small, but good. French toast; omelette-of-the-day; poached eggs on corn-bread; bacon and eggs; etc. Most are served with (albeit quite small) portions of salad and home fries. The homefries are soft with lots of spices and really tasty—and you have your choice of their sweet or spicy homemade ketchups. One small issue, though: any bacon on the menu is actually "Canadian" (or peameal) bacon. I used to hate the stuff growing up and even now it's not my first choice so that's my only real pet-peeve. Niche is a great place to go for it's cozy atmosphere, friendly service, good food and great coffee. Not the best place if you don't like peameal bacon or large portions, though. I can live with that.
Bier Markt (King Street West location) Location: King and Portland Rating: **1/2 of out 5 The Bier Markt, with much fanfare, recently opened a second location in our neighbourhood. Having been to the one on Front Street on a couple occasions it holds a fond place in my heart for introducing me to Denison's Weissbier. Unfortunately, the first disappointment is that this location isn't going to carry that particular beer—they don't have the room for the full range of taps and will be making do with a smaller selection of draught beers. (Which I can sympathize with—but why not cut out another beer? Maybe Stelle Artois? Surely that ubiquitous beer can go.) So: pooh. One thing that this location does do, however, is breakfast and brunch throughout the week. Which leads me to the second disappointment: brunch. We sat outside on the sleek, voluminous patio overlooking King Street. Great location and patio! We started with one of our favourite treats—chocolate crossiants. Like I said, though: disappointing. They were rectangular like MacDonald's apple pies and had the chewy texture of doughnuts, rather than the light, flakiness we've come to expect from... well... croissants! We can get far superior ones just up the street, so why waste our time and money on these pale imitations? Then came the main breakfast: an omelette with roasted vegetables and goat cheese. It was served on a big white plate with a small fruit salad. Boy, that plate sure looked empty! The fruit salad, once you got under the 3 pieces of watermelon, was just more regular melon. Wippee! The omelette itself was tasty, though not as fluffy as I'd usually hope for. But at a price of ... what ... 12 bucks? ... hardly worth it. I'd take a taxi to Fire on the East Side any day of the week where I'd have much better food and service for the same price. (Not that the service here was bad. It was perfectly fine, although with only six other diners there's not really much to go on as to how good it may be when the going gets busy.) Again ... It's not that brunch here is bad... it's just not really worth the price. I usually wait until I've gone at least twice somewhere before I review it, but I just don't see myself going back.
Musa Location: Dundas and Euclid Rating: ***** of out 5 Our two friends who live in the area introduced this little gem to us. I hadn't recently walked around this neck of the woods—I'm happy to say it's still blessedly unpretentious and untouristed. I even have mixed feelings about sharing Musa's existence with others (my 3 loyal readers and the remaining unsuspecting victims of Google searches run astray) because they're already pretty busy after 11am on weekends. This restaurant has quickly become my favourite haunt, along with Fire on the East Side. The menu offering is quite large—all the usual items you'd expect in a brunch menu are there. And yet so, so tasty. The selection of breakfast sandwiches are my favourite—served on thick challa bread with soft, flavorful home fries (two choices) and a side of salad. Most are less than ten bucks. Trust me: they're worth it. Other items (which I've yet to order) look equally delicious and presentable, although I'm not ready to move on yet. The restaurant itself is cute, colourful and quirkly. Musa draws a mostly younger (student) crowd, the remaining minority a mixed cross-section of the neighbourhood. (I'm not going to use the word "hipster" because then I'd have to slap myself silly.) Service is laissez-faire, for better and for worst. Be prepared to stand around waiting for a seat or someone to even acknowledge you if you come after 11am. You may also be sitting around endlessly waiting for your bill if you're not prepared to flag someone down as they buzz by. This could be an annoyance if you're in a rush, hungry, or generally impatient. But if you're there with friends or simply to lay waste to a Sunday afternoon, you won't even care.
Niagara Street Cafe Location: Niagara and Wellington. Right next-door to the Old York Tavern. Rating: ***1/2 of out 5 I've been to this restaurant twice now, although my visits were separated by a year or two. It's not a place I go to often, although it's very good. I suppose the reason I don't frequent it as much as the others is that it's more "elegant" and "refined"—not usually what I'm craving in the morning. Perhaps the best example of this is what we had on our most recent visit: I forget what it was called on the menu, but it was the most frou-frou bacon and eggs I've had. The bacon were two pieces of 1/4 inch, trip-smoked bacon, two small pieces of fried, crunchy baguette, a rare species of creamy chicken egg, soft-boiled and served in a cup, and a teensy portion of leafy salad in a cream sauce. It looked great on the long, rectangular plate, although not what I had expected. It was indeed scrumptious—probably given how rich each item was, despite its small portions—but if you weren't in the mood for this kind of fine-dining (i.e. it's required you take your time and savour each bite) then this place might not be for you. The menu is quite small, and moderately priced (brunch for two, with orange juice, came to about $30 before tax and tip), and very dainty. Standard items include a daily omelette and eggs benedict—although I didn't realize it at the time because it was called something else entirely on the menu. Coffee is served in a French press—a novel idea, as I love this method of brewing coffee. Although the down-side is that it cools off quickly and will get stronger as it gets colder since the coffee is left sitting on the grounds.) Juice is fresh squeezed. Service is perfectly satisfactory. The patio is nice in the summer, although directly in the sunlight without shade. (The more informal Old York Tavern next door is a much busier and boisterous at brunch-time.) Probably a great place to take mom or your girlfriend on special occasions, but not your buddies.
Sadie's Diner Location: Portland and Adelaide Rating: ***1/2 of out 5 This restaurant has three things really going for it: First, it's just up the road from us. Second, it opens at 7:30am on weekday mornings (and 9:00am on weekends, which is earlier than most), which makes it one of the few viable options for an early breakfast before work. The third, and this is mostly for other people: all the menu options are vegetarian, and many can be made vegan. The story is that the owner (who lives upstairs) is a big fan of animals and even volunteers at local animal organizations. (Perhaps the local pound? I forget.) The tables are decor are colorful and cozy (pez dispensers fill a shelf in the back room) and on Sunday mornings the sun shines warmly inside during the cold winter The menu options range from waffles and pancakes to some interesting options such as breakfast burritos (scrambled eggs fill the inside) and eggs, cheese and salsa on a crispy tortilla. Their homefries are greasy and chewy—just the way I like them. The fresh juice is delicious, and the mugs of coffee are big. Because I tend towards menu items involving eggs and some type of meat I find the menu selection limited; I can certainly live without meat, but I wouldn't want to live without it either. (Would organic sausages from the Healthy Butcher next door be against the their values? Probably, and too bad for me—tofu sausages just don't cut it (my two friends or their dog coudln't eat the "bacon"). However, for vegetarians and vegans this joint is undoubtedly a panacea.
Fire on the East Side Location: Yonge and Gloucester, just South of Bloor Rating: ***** of out 5 We were introduced to this place by a couple of friends who live in the area. Although it’s a bit off the beaten track for us (though easily accessible), this has quickly become our favourite “all-around” place for brunch. It combines the best of both worlds—you can find daily omelettes, quiches, and stuffed French toast here. However, unlike some breakfast spots that do fancy dishes well but can’t deliver a decent plate of “eggs, meat and home fries”, you’re in luck: they even do this well. In my ideal world, sausages are thick, home fries are soft and seasoned and scrambled eggs are nice and fluffy. Well, this is my ideal world. Of the fancier options, a favourite is the mouth-watering Banana Bread French Toast with fresh raspberry crème. Other interesting items include (more on the “unch” side of “brunch”) are a version of eggs benedict but on a crab cake instead of an English muffin. My all-time favourite is the spicy potato and turkey hash. I've never seen anything like it before: a bed of potatoes covered with spicy turkey, two poached eggs, hollandaise, and avocado salsa. Best of all, the service is incredibly efficient and friendly: of all the times we’ve been there, the good-looking staff always make our visit one of the most enjoyable aspects. (Although, I suppose, they do buy you off with a plate of banana bread for your table while you sip on your coffees and decide what you want to order.) I’ll often refuse to go to some of our favourite breakfast spots after certain times—Le Petit Dejeuner is a good example—because I hate waiting in line. Fortunately, lineups aren’t an issue here. At least, not at any of the times we’ve been there – in other words, around noon or earlier. (Update: This spot is getting busier. If you're not getting there early or you're going with a group you might want to make reservations.) Getting there early on a sunny (but cold) winter day means a good chance of scoring a window seat where you can get some of the rare golden rays during that time of the year.
Bar Wellington Location: Portland (just East of Bathurst) and Wellington St. West Rating: *** of out 5 This is, hands-down, definitely the most convenient place for us—in the winter, I’ll sometimes even forego my jacket since all I have to do is cross the street and I’m there. Relatively new to the neighbourhood, it occupies a historic, 3 storey house at the corner of Wellington and Portland. It’s never extraordinarily busy in the mornings, which makes it a nice place to be able to just drop by without worrying too much about finding a seat. I prefer eating here in the summer, however, as it has a fantastic patio—and I find that the inside has a bit of an echo, which means that everyone’s voices are inordinately amplified. (Who wants to listen to yuppies talk about how cool they are from across the restaurant, anyway? Yes, I’m talking about us.) The breakfast menu is succinct, and they have the standard offerings: eggs benedict, “meat, potatoes and eggs”, French toast, and pancakes. All of their meals are quite solid and enjoyable—but the one thing that I find really outstanding are their little “potato cakes”—deep friend potatoes reminiscent of the hash-browns served at many fast-food restaurants, but much tastier. I love these things! Their steak-and-eggs also pass muster: the steak is a decent size, and, more importantly, thick and juicy. To be honest, the only thing that really bothers me is the pathetic choice of toast—brown or white. At the cost of a loaf of bread or two, they could really stand to offer at least a couple of other options.
Mimi’s Location: Bathurst, just North of Queen Street Rating: **** of out 5 Note: After 22 years, arthritis and exhaustion have taken their toll, and Mimi is moving on. The restaurant is now closed. This place is a gem. In fact, it’s like stepping into an alternate reality. With a maximum capacity of about 16 people, it’s probably fortunate that it’s nearly unnoticeable in its occupancy of a corner of the Oak Leaf Steam Baths. (Yes, as featured in the novel “In the Skin of the Lion”! If you use the bathroom at Mimi’s, it’s actually down a flight of stairs into the bowels of the Baths. If you’re lucky, you’ll see catch some leathered old man skulking around while you wonder if all that exposed wiring might be some kind of a fire risk, and why Rod Serling is suddenly speaking into your head.) This is perhaps one of the coziest, homiest places I’ve ever squeezed my way into. I definitely wouldn’t recommend coming with a group bigger than four – because that’s all you can fit together in one booth! And, chances are, you’ll end up sitting up at the bar anyway, where you can eyeball all of the kitschy paraphernalia on the walls, watch cheesy flicks on the ancient tube, or watch Mimi cook up your breakfast. (Or watch her sleeve catch fire, as my friend frantically pointed out to her last time we were there.) Mimi cooks up thick french toast, heaping servings of “meat, potatoes and fries”, and a myriad of other interesting, cardiac-inducing dishes. Frankly, I can’t vouch for any of them, because I’m in seventh-heaven with the “El Vez” – an omelet stuffed (and covered) with cheese and chili, served with toast (take your pick!) and a heap of home fries. (The home fries are a bit bland for my taste, I must confess. Some onion fried into the mix would have me begging for more.) A word to the wise: don't commit the cardinal sin of taking up a booth instead of a couple of stools if you can manage it. (Did I mention space was at a premium?)
The Old York Tavern Location: Niagara (just West of Bathurst) and Wellington St. West Rating: TBD Unless you live in the neighbourhood you’re not likely to notice this tavern—just far enough from King Street to go by unnoticed by the passers-by. At home amidst new condo developments, relics of the industrial-era (like a huge abattoir) and the trendy Niagara Street Café, it’s almost impossible to tell how long this innocuous tavern has been around. The inside of The Old York is spartan, and almost a little bit bleak. Indeed, it’s not surprising to find it filled up with 50% unpretentiously-dressed regulars. (Quite a feat in this neck of the woods.) The food, however, is almost in contrast to how the interior looks: deliciously presented, and more up-scale than one would expect. The home fries here are unique in that they are like potato chips, except not quite as crisp: great for dipping into ketchup and crunching on while you enjoy your omelet-of-the-day served with fresh salad. The first time I took Gill here, she seemed dubious—until she found out the omelet of the day was filled with brie and avocado: two of her favourites. How, you may ask, is the service? I’m not sure. As of this writing I’ve only been there twice—the first time I was served by the male server, who was very gregarious and efficient. When I went with Gill, we had the female server. She was monumentally indifferent as she stood by to take our order, looking up at the ceiling. As the place filled up and people waited at the bar for a table she still didn’t even bother to bring us our bill. Since we had to leave to be somewhere, we ended up guessing the total and hurrying out. (And no doubt ended up, ironically, leaving way too big of a tip for the quality of service.) I’m curious to see if this was an anomaly, or if she was just having a bad day. In any event, it’s been enough to give me pause about visiting again – unless I can figure out how to get the male server.
Cora’s Location: Blue Jay’s Way (just East of Spadina) and Wellington St. West Rating: ***/5 for this location; ****/5 for the Merivale Road one in Ottawa Anyone who lives in Ottawa or Quebec will undoubtedly be familiar with this Montreal-originated chain of restaurants. (Just in Ottawa there must be at least half-a-dozen scattered around the city—of which the Merivale Road one is the gold standard: run with anal-retentive precision and perfection by its owner, Scott). In Toronto there is but one: albeit conveniently within a stone’s throw of the CN Tower. (Admittedly, you could hit something pretty far away from that high.) I was tickled to find a Cora’s so close when I moved here: it’s also comforting to find a place that you know and reminds you of home. Jim, the owner, is possibly the friendliest and hands-on restaurant owner I’ve met. He made me feel warmly welcome to not only his restaurant, but the city as a whole. For those not initiated to Cora’s, this is an amazing place to try breakfast — forget the meat and potatoes, though: where this place shines is with its bounteous breakfast involving heaps of fruit, crepes, waffles, skillets, omelets and traditional French-fare such as creton. Be warned, however: as with any Cora’s, if you don’t show up before 9:00am, you can pretty much count on a line up. Caveat: having been to many (many) Cora’s, I must say, alas, that the quality of the food is inconsistent: this is the only Cora’s where my favourite dish (the Ten Star Egg-in-a-Skillet) is usually served with the vegetables so undercooked that I feel I’m almost eating a salad, and the time I had the raspberry-and-cream-cheese-filled crepe it was so cold that my teeth hurt. (The raspberries were clearly recently thawed – and the cream cheese right from the back of the fridge.) Other little things – like being served the bottom of a pineapple, instead of a fresh, middle slice – are minor annoyances, but there is usually something at every meal that I wouldn’t expect at other Cora’s. Still, I’m being a bit of a perfectionist here – so if you haven’t been to Cora’s, you owe it to yourself.
Le Petit Dejeuner Location: King St. East, just East of Jarvis Rating: **** of out 5 Although you would never know it by the name, this is a great place to grab breakfast. Be warned, though: expect lineups on the weekend. (And in the winter, that usually translates to "freezing your buns off on the sidewalk".) This little, kitchsy venue serves up my favourite 3-cheese omelette, ever: the eggs are fluffy and moist; the cheeses are light and flavourful; the garnishes of chives and spices are delicate and complimentary. Really, I like this omelette. So much so that I've pretty much ignored other items on the menu since finding it. One unique thing about this colourful joint is that most meals are served with, instead of home fries, their signature "apple coleslaw"—a tasty change, unless you're like Gill and allergic to apples, of course. Since the owners are from Belgium, they also tout their waffles as "real" Belgian waffles. Frankly, I can't confirm or deny their authencity, but if that means, "light, crispy on the outside, and a little bit softer inside", then they indeed are. These waffles are a great change from the giant sponges served elsewhere. In fact, they are great for just dipping into the syrup! I guess there's more to Begium than just chocolate after all. Other menu offerings include the "Hungry Gal" breakfast, which, as a man, I just can't bring myself to order (even if it does pretty much consist of the standard meat and eggs). As you can imagine, this is a really great place to—well, to be honest—bring a girl. The decor, artwork, service, and atmosphere is Toronto-trendy, and the meals are great. What more could you want? (Well, beer. But you can't get that until after 11:00am. What is this, Temperance Street? Ha ha. Toronto joke.)
Tequila Bookwoorm Location: Queen St. West, at Portland St. Rating: ** to **** of out 5 We love this place, and yet may never go back. It's that kind of place. On a good day, it's a relaxing place to go and kill a dreary, rainy morning while eating a hot, delicious avocado and cheddar omelette and thumbing through the morning paper. On another day (actually, on most other days) you can't get service to save your life, the food is cold, and there's lipstick on your coffee mug. (One morning, after waiting indefinitely for a server to give us a second glance I gave up and stood up at the cash, where I was ignored for 5 minutes by the person behind the counter before they deigned to take my money. Later that day I realized he hadn't even given me back my debit card.) But let's focus on the good, shall we? Imagine walking into a cozy place filled with magazines, bare-brick walls, mis-matched furniture, students sipping lattes while tapping out masterpieces (or downloading essays) on their MacBooks—of course, imagine them sitting there all day—and the casual waitstaff generously leaving you alone to enjoy your magazine or simply stare at the passersby on Queen Street. You have one of their tasty breakfasts (as I mentioned, the omelettes are great... when heated) and the world is your oyster. (Slimy and stuck in mud?) You have found yourself one of the top breakfast spots. Or, on the other hand—you're hungry and don't want to spend 2 hours drumming your fingers on the table waiting for your meal, and then the bill, so you can get on with your life and enjoy the sunny weather. This is why we haven't gone back in a while.
Mars Diner Location: College at Bathurst Rating: *** 1/2 of out 5 Mars is one of the first places I ever went to breakfast at when I first moved to Toronto. The long, narrow diner is steeped in history: the counter, booths, pictures, equipment and staff clearly haven't changed in the last few decades. In fact, the pictures on the wall show a much younger staff. I would make the longish walk here on most Sunday mornings, grab a seat at the counter and order what I consider to be the hands-on "steak and eggs" winner. The steaks are big, thick and juicy (not those thin, dried-out things you often get elsewhere); the scrambled eggs are fluffy and plenty; the toast is—well, toast; the home fries are greasy and tasty. And, best of all, the price is under ten bucks. Everything just the way I like it. (Plus it's open early, and all day.) If you're a fan of old-style diners, this is the place. In fact, it's not old-style—it's the real deal. The staff is efficient in the way of diner staff, but not unfriendly. They'll be by often to make sure your coffee is properly topped off. The other menu items trend towards standard diner style: simple, and cheap. Don't expect anything fancy from this place and you won't be disappointed. This is my favourite place to bring my pals after a night of partying—definitely the spot to sooth a hangover before heading home. |
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