Travelogues
Atlantic Canada
Day 23: Pictou to Charlottetown (81 km) | Day 23: Pictou to Charlottetown (81 km) |
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| Written by Eric Mathurin | |
| Friday, 30 June 2000 | |
When I awoke it was still cloudy outside and a bit cool. (I couldn't
complain too much considering how nice the weather has been up until
recently.) I left the house just before nine and cycled up the road.
After a few moments I realized I was going the wrong way down a one way
street. Then I noticed the little restaurant I had been looking for
beside me so I wheeled up, went in and took a seat at the counter. The
waitress commented that I looked tired and I realized I had been
staring blankly at the counter top. She poured me a coffee and I
ordered an omellette. While I waited for the order (and as I ate) I was
in conversation with one of the locals next to me—a retired man. I had
another coffee. After breakfast, as I was leaving, I chatted briefly
with another local and then a couple from Chicago who spend their
summers in the area.
I decided to take the most direct route to the ferry. It was only 6km, but seemed longer. Although there was barely any traffic the road was cracked and worn and there was a cool wind blowing against me. When I got to the ferry cars had just started loading, but since I was on a bike I was able to pass all of them and ride right to the front of the ferry. I noticed two bicycle tourists on their way out and I waved. I found my way to the deck of the ship where I spent almost the entire 75 minute ride to P.E.I. It was cool, but I enjoyed the breeze as I watched Nova Scotia grow fainter while the island up ahead crept closer into view. Although the sky was overcast and I could occassionally feel a few drops of rain, at least there was no fog so I could actually see. I was one of the first off the boat (incidentally, it costs nothing to get ON the island... they nail you when you leave—pretty sneaky) and went directly to the tourist office and grabbed a map of the island. I decided to take the TransCanada Highway for a change to Charlottetown since it's designated as one of their scenic routes. (Apparently a lot of cyclists spend all their time riding the TC throughout Canada. That boggles my mind. You miss all the good scenery and have to share it with hordes of traffic. I guess they either have different priorities or don't know better.) To my surprise the TC was almost deserted. Although most of the scenery was farms, the colours of the land was a pleasant deep green mixed with strips of red soil and bordered by trees. The road even took me through some manageable ascents that overlooked some forest and valleys.As it neared noon I stopped at a restaurant by the road for lunch. They didn't, as usual, have anything healthy on the menu so I had fish and chips again. While I continued my ride I could feel drops of rain, but it was never enough to make anything wet. Then, all of a sudden, the traffic came out of nowhere. Before long the riding felt more like a chore as I was forced to pay most of my attention to keeping on the shoulder. At least the wind was on my side and its coolness kept me from sweating as profusely as I normally do. Just before crossing the bridge into Charlottetown I stopped at a liquor store and picked up a bottle of champagne to bring to Gillian's cottage for Canada Day. I stuffed it my pannier and hoped it wouldn't explode on my trip tomorrow. I cycled across the bridge and consulted my map. I couldn't find a street sign but ended up on the right one and navigated my way towards the hostel. As I followed the road it was on I couldn't help but notice I was getting farther and farther away from centre town. Then I remembered the address to the independent hostel Major Hooples that I had written down from the one in Pictou. It was smack dab downtown. So I turned around.I made my way through the myriad of one way streets into downtown. I managed to find the right address—a big old house across the street from a pub. I went in the lobby and found people all about. I asked a lady if they were open. No, they were moving. Um. Dang. That explained the truck outside. I was dissappointed—this would have been a great location. So I found my way back up through the roads to the International Hostel. It looked like an old farm house, and judging by it's land, laneway and location, probably was at one point. I checked in and took a much needed shower. I was then allowed to bring my bike into the hostel and stuck it in a closet next to the exit. Despite its location, it's a fairly nice place. The first floor is for the girls, and the second for the boys with a lounge for both sexes at the end of the hall with couches, T.V. and VCR. After settling in I sat on the couch and watched the news, hoping for the weather. After a little while a guy who works here came in and asked if I wanted to watch The Simpsons. How could I say no? He left partway into it and soon a girl and guy sat down and watched. During a commercial I broke the silence and asked where they were from. The guy, Jeff, is from St. John's and has been working the last seven months with a volunteer group now in Katimavik, NB. He has a few days off. The girl is from Signapore and is travelling around the world. The both liked to talk. I was happy to listen, and even deflected the conversation away from me at one point.We talked for a long while. Or rather, they did most of the talking. The girl tended to steer the conversation to herself more than Jeff. After a while Jeff and I walked (and walked) into downtown to grab a bite to eat. We found a pub and I had another unhealthy (but very appetizing) meal... and a Keith's. Afterwards we checked out the park by the river where they had a band playing (Great Big Sea tomorrow) and other pre-Canada Day festivities. There was admission to get in, so we didn't stay long and headed back to the hostel. We walked (and walked) back and arrived at about 10:00pm. Throughout the entire time Jeff and I were together he did most of the talking. It's kind of ironic, really—you'd think I'd be the one starved to talk to people. But I found myself more than happy to listen to him. I guess I've gained a bit of humility on this trip. I think I could tell you about his life and dreams. Still, his chatter felt less self-centred and more of a need to talk to someone other than the people he's with every day. Back at the hostel I grabbed a seat on the couch where a girl and two guys were watching T.V. Then they put in The Empire Strikes Back. Before long there were about six or seven of us watching it and making the occasional 'witty' comments. About halfway through I managed to pull myself free. I think they plan to watch the next one, too, but I'd like to get up early. (Like I ever manage to get up as early as I want to!) |
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