Day 19: Glen Margaret to Halifax (55 km)

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Day 19: Glen Margaret to Halifax (55 km)

Written by Eric Mathurin

Monday, 26 June 2000

The barrens at the Cove.

Much to my surprise, it didn't rain during the night. Some crows that sounded like they had bronchitis cawing in the tree above me got up me up early. I tentatively looked outside at around 6:45am and saw that the sky was dark and cloudy. Expecting rain at any minute I hurriedly packed up camp and headed out. It was cool but I welcomed it. As I cycled down the deserted highway my muscles were still sore. Before long I reached the infamous Peggy's Cove. I stopped by the monument to the victims of Swissair flight 111 along the rocks overlooking the ocean. There was no one anywhere and I found the moment quite peaceful and sobering. I continued along to the Cove, and it also was very peaceful. Up at the restaurant near the lighthouse there was a tour bus, but only a handful of people from it were around the area. I had a rather expensive breakfast there, but what they hey. As I was leaving I saw the touring bikes of the English couple parked outside, but I didn't see them anywhere.

A sombre moment at the Swissair Flight 111 memorial.

After leaving Peggy's Cove the sky began to clear and traffic began to increase. My muscles were aching and my energy was low. During the fights uphill my glasses were steaming up. I was thankful when I came to the outskirts of Halifax. From the main road I descended into the city amidst the Monday morning traffic. I found my way through downtown and to the hostel on Barrington street. The hostel has been undergoing major renovations, so things were a little rough. I put my bike outside in the backyard where there's major construction going on. I registered, but the water had been turned off for a while so I payed a dollar to use the Internet kiosk and checked email. After that I retired to the empty T.V. room and chilled on the couch.

The most photographed lighthouse in the world. So they say.

After spending some time relaxing I checked the water and found it turned on. I showered and then set myself up in my room, a dorm with 4 bunk beds. While in the lounge I scoped out the internet kiosk and traced a phone cord from it into the wall... so I unplugged it and managed to send up my journal entries. Then, reluctantly, I decided to walk in town. It was a beautiful day but I was tired and took my time. I walked along the wharf and took in the sights, including the old Alexander Keith's brewery. I kept an eye out for pubs and restaurants. I sat in the gorgeous public gardens for a while. I stopped by the tourist office for information and postcards. Then, eventually, I wound my way back to the hostel.

Boats nestled in the harbour.

I spent some time in my room napping, and then going over maps and later writing postcards. I made conversation with an Australian who's spent the last year or so travelling the world. We got to talking, and then made our way to the local pub next door. I had been hoping to get food, but the kitchen was closed. It was a local pub and there were a few surly looking people at the bar. Perfect! We stayed and bought each other a round of Keith's. We had a good time sharing stories and laughs and eventually headed back to the hostel where we sat ourselves down in the quiet T.V. room. After a little while a girl from Scotland came in and the three of us chatted until around midnight. The two of them are taking a three day tour (offered by the hostel) up the Cabot Trail tomorrow. It's tempting to go with them and see it by van... but I don't think I could do that. It would just seem wrong. In my conversations I've realized how lucky I've been to see the touristy places early in the morning/season—with no tourists.

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